In eastern Liguria, in the municipality of Cogorno, is located a small, ancient “neighbourhood” called San Salvatore. For several hundred years, this settlement belonged to the powerful Fieschi family, the Dukes of Lavagna. It was from this family that the popes cited in the title came.
The foundation of San Salvatore
Some historians claim that the first settlement in this location existed as early as the time of the ancient Romans. However, no traces from Roman times have survived to this day. The oldest documented mentions date back to the 12th century, when the church of San Salvatore “Il vecchio” (the “old” Church of the Saviour) was built there. In the mid-13th century, the Basilica of San Salvatore “il nuovo” (the “new” Church of the Saviour) was built. Over the centuries, San Salvatore has had its moments of glory and decline. At one point, it was completely abandoned. In recent years, however, the historical significance of this place has begun to be emphasised, even if it is still a long way from full bloom.
San Salvatoer “Il vecchio”
The church, built at the turn of the 10th and 11th centuries, was the first religious building on this site. In the 13th century, the church was destroyed by the troops of Emperor Frederick II, following a directive from Pope Innocent IV, who was born Sinibaldo Fieschi. In the 17th century, the church was rebuilt in the Baroque style and remains so to this day. Currently, it is open to visitors only on special occasions.
San Salvatore “Il nuovo”
Sinibaldo Fieschi, descended from the family of the Dukes of Lavagna, became Pope Innocent IV in 1243. After the Emperor Frederick II destroyed his native village in 1244, he decided to build a new basilica. The pope did not live to see the church’s completion, but shortly after, his nephew, Ottobono Fieschi, ascended the Vatican throne as Pope Adrian V, who completed its construction.
The basilica was built and maintained in the Romanesque-Gothic style. The façade features characteristic black-and-white stripes. A large marble rosette sits in its centre. Interestingly, the façade features numerous bas-reliefs depicting Christian and… pagan (!) symbolism. The interior of the church is very austere. It is divided into a nave and two side aisles. There are no decorations or side altars from later periods. The church’s most distinctive feature, of course, is the massive bell tower. It can be climbed during FAI days and religious festivals in San Salvatore di Cogorno. From the top, there is a phenomenal view all the way to the Portofino peninsula
The Popes of San Salvatore
It was the area around San Salvatore (and over time, many others) that was bestowed, along with the title of duke, upon a local noble family, the Fieschi family. They had always had close ties to the Church and owed their power, in part, to this. Their apogee came when the Fieschi family reached the Warta and produced two popes, Innocent IV and Adrian V. Their power continued into the modern era. They were one of the most powerful and influential families in the Republic of Genoa. The end of their good fortune dates back to 1547, when they conspired against another family of Genoese nobles, the Doria family. The plot failed, and the Doria family’s revenge was inexorable, bringing about the definitive end of the Fieschi family’s power.
San Salvatore is still a very authentic place in Liguria. Full of history, very cool … definitely worth seeing before it becomes overrun by tourists! I recommend it!
