Staglieno: even Nietzsche,Twain and Hemingway were marveled at it!

November the 1st is the All Saint’s Day. This is the day to recall all the persons that have gone forever … This is the day of silence, reflection and memory. On this occasion, I went to Staglieno, a monumental cemetery of Genoa.

How to reach Staglieno?

• by car – the address: Piazzale Resasco. In front of the cemetery, you can find many parking places (blue and white) so you shouldn’t have problems with parking your car. What is more, Staglieno is located very closed to the Genova Est motorway exit. When you leave the motorway you will see the indications to „cimitero monumentale”. If you follow them you will arrive at the cemetery in less than 5 minutes.
• by bus – if you arrive in Genoa by train (or you don’t have a car) you should get off in Genova Brignole railway station. In front of the station, you will see the bus stops. Next to them is located a small kiosk where you can buy the bus tickets. The one-way ticket costs 1,50€. The buses that bring you to Staglieno are 13 and 14.

 

Opening hours:

Monday to Sunday:  7.30 am – 5.00 pm

More info: http://www.staglieno.comune.genova.it/it

 

History

The cemetery was inaugurated in 1851. It was located in Staglieno, a small village not far away from the city centre. It consisted of the Catholic Cemetery, Protestant Cemetery, English Cemetery and Jewish cemetery.  They were created in different periods and they were very different from one another. Staglieno became also a prototype for many other cemeteries like Père Lachaise Cemetery in Paris.

 

Let’s start visiting Staglieno!

 

When you enter the cemetery I recommend you to start visiting from:

Porticato Inferiore  (Lower Arcade)

You find it on your right. It is the cemetery’s primal part. I think it is the most beautiful section of Staglieno. That is the part full of extremely realistic sculptures. The most frequent style here is the Bourgeois Realism. The sculptures are incredibly detailed. Their costumes, expressions, bodies are really awesome!

 

Then you can move to

Porticato Superiore (Upper Arcade)

You find it above … Porticato Inferiore 😉 Also here you find the beautiful sculptures created in the second half of the 19th century. The subjects and themes change from the sober neoclassical allegories to the analytical and everyday representations.

Then you can go up a hill and you will find a

Boschetto Irregolare (Irregular Grove)

One of Staglieno’s characteristic is that it integrates many different types of cemeteries. The geometrical, orderly place of memory, coexists with a romantic, mysterious landscape. Above the Upper Arcade is located a walkable area with the winding avenues. This is a part with the tombs of the participants of the battles for the unification of Italy. Here you can find also the tomb of Giuseppe Mazzini, the Italian politician and activist for the unification of Italy.

Walking down the hill you find another type of the cemeteries

The Protestant Cemetery, the English Cemetery and the Jewish Cemetery

At the end of the 19th century to Staglieno were moved the other confessions cemeteries. Their were strewn among the city and differed from Genoa’s urban expansion plan of that time. In 1880 in Staglieno was transferred a Protestant Cemetery. There you find the tomb of Constance Lloyd, the writer and the wife of Oscar Wilde. Next to the Protestant Cemetery is placed the Jewish Cemetery. They both seem to be a bit neglected but they are very fascinating.

It is really awesome and enchanting cemetery. It is a perfect place to stop and think about the time and the life that pass by.

This is the place you should visit absolutely!